Setting in the stones.

To flush set small round stones I'll start with a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the stone. Then create a "seat" for the stone with a bearing bur the same size as or slightly smaller than the stone. Burnishers can be made from old burs held in a pin vise. I burnish with the side of the tip, moving it in a side to side motion, exerting enough pressure to upset the edge and move metal down toward the crown of the stone. Smaller diameters will move more metal and are useful for getting a stone tight, larger diameters might leave a smoother surface. It can be useful to have a couple diameters at hand.

Flush Setting (side)

Working with the burnisher at too steep an angle will move metal more up and away instead of down. Starting at a shallower angle will get the metal started moving down and in.

Flush Setting (top)

I go easy, initially, on the first side to avoid raising the opposite side of the stone. Work one side, then the opposite, then back again, until the stone is secured and level.

Soldering the spring and button unit to the tongue base.

This piece has a traditional style box clasp. On the tongue side I like to use two pieces -- a sturdy base with with a lighter, 18 karat white spring. There will also be a fold-under safety clasp. The little piece I had flattened for the button was close enough to size that I decided to finish shaping it after it was attached.

Gold and Diamond Bangle